
TÃo Will ***
Reviewed Tuesday, 25 September, 2007 – Regional specialties. Open Monday through Saturday, 7am – 4pm. Calle 70 No. 506, between Calle 63 and Calle 65.
I HAVE OCCASION TO PASS BY TÍO WILL (UNCLE WILL) almost every day of the week, and have always meant to stop in and try it. This well-kept cocina económica is operated by a family that also runs a small laundromat right next door. The smells that greet me every morning are a dizzying mix of detergent and chorizo, which might sound off-putting but somehow the overall spell they cast is of good food – and cleanliness. The tidy dining area is paved with an unusual and lovely basketweave pattern of mosaico de pasta tiles, and the kitchen – which obviously serves as the family kitchen, too – is warm and homey with its wooden pull-up bar and storage cabinets. Today’s offering (only one) was chile relleno, stuffed either with cheese or with pork. I chose the pork and was not disappointed. The huge poblano was stuffed with well seasoned and savory coarsely chopped meat, dipped in a light egg batter and fried until crisp. Plated, it was topped with an authentic and delicious salsa de jitomate Yucateca – Yucatán’s only cooked tomato sauce – and served with frijol colado and buttery rice. The beverage was a light, slightly tart and refreshing agua fresca of jamaica. The service: fast and efficient. I had my meal within two minutes of ordering – a feat McDonald’s could scarcely top. And the environment was breezy and tranquil on this rainy afternoon – until the hostess switched on the TV for her growing number of patrons and tuned in to the Mexican dating show called 12 Corazones (12 Hearts). ¡Adiós, Tío Will!
I HAVE OCCASION TO PASS BY TÍO WILL (UNCLE WILL) almost every day of the week, and have always meant to stop in and try it. This well-kept cocina económica is operated by a family that also runs a small laundromat right next door. The smells that greet me every morning are a dizzying mix of detergent and chorizo, which might sound off-putting but somehow the overall spell they cast is of good food – and cleanliness. The tidy dining area is paved with an unusual and lovely basketweave pattern of mosaico de pasta tiles, and the kitchen – which obviously serves as the family kitchen, too – is warm and homey with its wooden pull-up bar and storage cabinets. Today’s offering (only one) was chile relleno, stuffed either with cheese or with pork. I chose the pork and was not disappointed. The huge poblano was stuffed with well seasoned and savory coarsely chopped meat, dipped in a light egg batter and fried until crisp. Plated, it was topped with an authentic and delicious salsa de jitomate Yucateca – Yucatán’s only cooked tomato sauce – and served with frijol colado and buttery rice. The beverage was a light, slightly tart and refreshing agua fresca of jamaica. The service: fast and efficient. I had my meal within two minutes of ordering – a feat McDonald’s could scarcely top. And the environment was breezy and tranquil on this rainy afternoon – until the hostess switched on the TV for her growing number of patrons and tuned in to the Mexican dating show called 12 Corazones (12 Hearts). ¡Adiós, Tío Will!
Yucatán:
A Culinary Expedition
A Culinary Expedition
PART ONE: North
Mérida
PART TWO: East
PART THREE: South
PART FOUR: West

